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Caring for your Steel Swords

Caring for your Steel Swords and Products
  • All the steel, except the stainless steel pommels will pick up some rust.
  • Areas of high humidity can affect the blade as well. Keep your blade inside and A/C environment as much as possible.
  • After use, or longer storage, wipe down with recommended sword oil.
  • If there is rust, use some fine sand paper, or scouring pad with oil to wipe off the rust and re-apply gun oil.
  • Use a fine metal file to remove any burrs that may appear on the blade or guard.
  • If there is damage on the sword grip, use superglue to hold down the torn wrapping.

Whats with the different pommels?

Whats with the different pommel you offer?
  • The pentii Scent stopper pommel is an original design, its kinda ugly, it can rust, its cheap.
  • The PHA scent stopper pommel pommel feels and looks nicer, but can rust.
  • The stainless steel scent stopper pommel will not rust, is nice, but expensive.
  • The word scent stopper pommel is from a perfume jar top.
  • Our pentti and VB disc pommels are usually peened or held in place. They will not twist. The red dragon disc pommels easily twist with use.
  • My cane pommels are typically stainless steel.
  • If there is rust, use some fine sand paper, or scouring pad with oil to wipe off the rust and re-apply gun oil.

Pear Or disc Pommel, Schilt or no schilt?

Do I get pear or disc pommel? With or without Schilt?
  • Really good question. These are the differences. Historically, in most of the earlier art, historical swords, and manuals, most of what you see are disc pommel swords. The pear pommels are later and on the 16th century feders.
  • The disc pommel keeps your hands closer together. This is how swords were used, its in the manuals. It helps in many cuts and moves as your arms don't get as wound up. This can be considered better for technical sword fighting.
  • The pear pommel allows you to spread your hands out a bit more. This is better for larger gloves, and give you better thrust accuracy and control of your sword when cutting. So you can pull your blows a bit more or do short quick controlled sniping. This can be considered better for tournament fighting.
  • The schilt (funny looking bat wing looking thing on the blade, above the guard) historically is mostly German, Meyer. This greatly helps protect the guard from taking impacts and getting loose over time. The schilt block hits that otherwise would hit the guard or some of your hand.
  • Without the schilt, is typically considered Fiore de Liberi, Italian. The advantage of NOT having a schilt is that there are some binding techniques that the opponents blade needs to be closer on the guard, and not farther out on the schilt. Those few inches changes the dynamics of some moves, and can allow the opponnts blade to disengauge ealier that should happen.

What is a feder?

What is a feder?
  • Historically the term has been used in different context. But modern use of the word would be describing a blunt steel sword that is designed for vigorous use. Its often used tournaments or un-controlled fighting. It often has a schilt, but not required. It often has a longer grip to accommodate larger gloves, but not required. But, it must flex on the thrust. I think that is the big difference between just a blunt sword, and a feder. The flexing requires different spring steels that will have good flex and good rebound. A blunt sword, tends to be cheaper steels that are also harder/more brittle. Something like a 'standard steel sword' can vary in steel from brittle stainless steels, to high end swords made from exotic steels that can costs thousands of dollars. Those are designed to be stiff and cut well, and strong against the impact forces. But not flex and hold a sharp edge.

Lets talk about FLEX and feder STRENGTH

Blade Flexibility is key to how a feder is used.
  • There are currently 2 standards of measuring flex in swords, HEMA and SCA. See this Video. After 2022, The VB line of swords is moving towards pushing from the guard vs. the pommel. The Regenyei line is measured by pushing from the pommel. There is at least a 5 lb difference in these 2 methods. The pommel push gives you a lower reading. I have the results in the SIZING tab on all swords.
  • Light/Flexible/Featherweight: 15 - 21lbs (7-9.5kg): Our Light Flex series of blades are intended for light controlled sparring. Or used in coaching sessions, that work repetitive drills, particularly thrusting. The extra flex is very forgiving on your coach. The blade can be considered too flexible by some. The flex will not be as controllable during strong moves. You may feel it flex during cuts. Opponents with a stiffer blade will be able to control your blade much more. An excessive bend put in the blade due to an excessive thrust can begin the cycle of the blade holding a bend and is not covered by warranty. This is typically not to be used in tournaments unless you have excellent control and footwork.
  • PRO: Best for Youth.
  • PRO: Very forgiving to your opponent.
  • PRO: Best for working with coaches
  • CON: No bind presence.
  • CON: Weak Overall, you will get pushed around in vigorous sparring.
  • CON: Durability may be lower.
  • Medium: 25-30lbs (11.5-13.6kg): Our medium flex blades are becoming the standard in most mixed tournament use. They have some strength in tournaments, but are still forgiving to opponents and will leave fewer bruises. They are good for day to day training and moderate controlled sparring. Its a lighter blade so you tip will be quicker than heavier swords. On strong cuts you may feel the blade flex. An aggressive thrust can cause the sword to hold the bend and not covered by warranty.
  • PRO: Forgiving to your opponent.
  • PRO: Better presence than the light.
  • PRO: Beginning to be the required standard in most tournaments.
  • CON: Limited binding and presence.

  • Strong 30-43lbs (13.5-15kg+): This is for feders designed for heavier tournament use at full speed and force. Its going to stay accurate and strong during thrusting and binging moves. It will flex on thrusts but harder. It will hit harder and full protective gear is required. The blade will have a longer lifespan since over bending is less likely to happen. You will have greater control over your opponents swords during fencing and binding.
  • PRO: The most binding feel and presence of any feders.
  • PRO: Least likely to take a hard bend and see permanent damage.
  • CON: Hard thrusts will bruise your opponent.
  • CON: Post 2022, I am seeing more tournament restrict their use.
  • Stiff/No Flex 45lbs+ (20kg+): Harnesfecten, and Buhurt swords do not flex at all, or very minimal. These are specialized swords. Usually heavier and thicker steel with people wearing steel plate armor. Here is Buhurt video if you don't know what it is. Harnesfecten is more like this...
  • Most of the Regenyei "Longsword" line will fall in the area also. These are very well balance and near historical swords. They are typically sold as solo trainer, paired techniques trainers (with absolute control) and collectors pieces.
  • PRO: Buhrut swords are designed to knock your opponent down.
  • PRO: Harnesfecten, you don't want flex so you can control the sword during half-swording.
  • PRO: Historic Longswords are stiffer, better balanced, greater control.
  • CON: Typically thrusting is restricted.

Rolled Tip VS. Spatulated Tips. Lets get it on.

This is IMHO.
  • Rolled tips have been used in practice and tournaments since at least 2008, and have seen hundreds of thousand of hours of use. The reality of the situation is breaks or safety situations, are in the 0.00000001% range. A rolled tip does have the potential to break sharply, I've seen a few, and heard of a few people getting scratched. Maybe even 1 or 2 stitches. I don't know of any Regenyei rolled tips that have broken. Maybe they have, but I have no record of it. Europe seems to not have any issues and use rolled tips all the time. In the USA, much has been said for a push to use spatulated tips and we are moving most of the VB line to spatulated tips because of it. The thrusting impact surface area of a rolled tip is greater than a thin/wide spatuated tip. I've heard about them penetrate gloves, hands, and jackets as well. Most swords, when they do break, its usually 6" down from the tip. Its typically a straight break, and mostly no issue, but a disheartening twing.
    Regenyei doesn't make spatulated tips and they say their safety record speaks for itself. Based on my design recommendations VB has been moving to spatulated tips from 2022 onward.

  • Rolled Tips:PRO: The standard from at least 2008 onward.
  • PRO: Less expensive to manufacture. Typically see a $20-$30 lower price in the sword.
  • PRO: Rubber blunts fit on better.
  • CON: If the sword does break at the roll, it can be a sharper break.

  • Spatulated Tips:
  • PRO: If there is a break, there is no roll, so there is no potential sharp area. They still break, but its more likely to be farther down the blade.
  • CON: Harder to fit on a rubber blunt. Which is required at many tournaments.
  • CON: More expensive manufacturing process.

Swords that hold a BEND.

Note, this is an article in process.
  • Every steel sword will hold a bend during normal use and if its been hit or thrust with beyond its inteneded design. It only take one over-done thrust and its stay bent.
  • The more flexible a sword is, the more like it is to hold a bend, since less strength is required to bend it. (See this link.) This is important. Post 2020 there has been a big push for sword with more flex, with that will come more required maintenance on your swords.
  • Kinks.
  • Warranty: If a sword is used below its design strength, early in its life and hold a kink, its possibly bad tempering and can be covered by warranty. Usually the sword will hold the kink on both left and right side. After straightening, and with very little force, it will kink back.
  • Not Warrantied: If you grappling and falling on the sword, charging on each other, and also clinch the sword at the weak between gloves in dynamic motions. It could Kink. This is not due to excessive use and is not covered by warranty.
  • If a sword has any other type of bend to it, especially over 6 months of use, just straighten it. Its spring steel and will be fine. Here is an article showing how to do it.
  • Further articles showing the safety of swords with a slight bend.
  • https://swordstem.com/2021/11/01/is-a-sword-with-a...
  • https://swordstem.com/2022/10/17/sword-flex/
  • .

My Group does Fiore, what sword do I need?

What I do Fiore, what sword do I need?
  • First read https://www.woodenswords.com/help_answer.asp?ID=2...
  • The modern term for a Feder is any sword for sparring, particularly in a tournament. Tends to be designed for harder sparring, thicker metal, thicker edges (4mm). Good Flex for thrusting.
    The German Tradition tends to be longer blades and a schilt (tiny shield near the guard), the Italian Tradition never does. Fiore swords tend to be shorter, as they are more designed for training as if you are in armour (half-swording). But, in a HEMA tournament, thats typically not done, and its all out war.
    First you need to decide if you are training, or need a trainer/tournament sword. Many Fiore Groups tend to train and practice and don't do the tournament scene as much. See your instructor.

    The best swords for training and light/moderate sparring are our 'Technique' line of swords. They are historically scaled, good balance, weight, and flex, and most don't have a schilt. They are about 3mm thick. So thinner steel, so I don't recommend then for tournaments. They will not last as much. People do it, but they are voiding the blade more.
    If you are sparring and training, then these are the better choices:
    These swords have a much thinner edge and are only used for training and very light controlled sparring. Use only if you club approves.
    https://www.woodenswords.com/category_s/2259.htm


    At the end of the day, you will own multiple sword with multiple characteristics, and a 'Fiore' will be one of them.
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